Russians in Morocco number. African Countess

How do people live in Morocco? How to characterize this country in one word? Probably a mixture. There are so many things mixed up in it that sometimes you can’t believe in the reality of what is happening. Women in hijabs driving a moped, houses in historical centers thickly hung with satellite dishes, spontaneous socializing on the streets - and all this is considered an absolute norm.

Among the Moroccans there are highlanders - they live in areas where the benefits of civilization have not yet reached. And a few hundred meters from their quarters there are tourist areas with beaches, luxury hotels, spas and golf clubs.

Russians

There are not as many Russian-speakers in the Kingdom as in European countries - only a few tens of thousands. According to rough estimates, about 5 thousand of them live in Casablanca. Almost 80% of compatriots are women. Many have moved here with their husbands. We met when they studied at the universities of the USSR or Russia.

It is interesting that the real life of Russian women in Morocco differs from the stereotypes associated with the position of the weaker sex in the Muslim world. Morocco is a humane state in this regard. Here, the fair sex is allowed much more than in other Islamic countries.

How do women live in Morocco?

The Koran and Muslim traditions must be respected - this is an axiom, but whether or not to wear a hijab, Moroccan and Russian girls decide on their own. There is no violence on the part of the husband and his family in this regard.

The life of women in Morocco, especially in large cities, is approaching the European style. Girls are increasingly appearing on the streets in comfortable T-shirts, jeans, dye their hair, and put on light makeup.

But tight-fitting tops with a deep neckline, leggings that emphasize all the curves of the body, the local population will not understand and will not accept. This also applies to the length of the dress: it is better to close the knees.

Separate conventions do not restrict the freedom and rights of the fairer sex. If earlier they unquestioningly obeyed the will of their father, and then their spouse, today the situation has changed dramatically.

Moroccans:

  • They study at universities, although not everyone attended school before.
  • They work, including in government positions. Almost 25% of doctors and teachers are female.
  • They get married after 18 years. In the past, girls were married off as soon as they were 15 years old.
  • A bride does not need her father's consent to start a family. She will not be forced to marry either - the consent of the girl is needed.
  • If before the children were considered the property of the father and remained with him in the event of a divorce, now they can live with their mother.

It would seem like paradise, but not everything is so cloudless. A Muslim man, as before, has the right to have four wives. True, the first spouse must give written consent to each subsequent marriage. No consent - no harem.

It is difficult for foreigners to get a job. The exception is doctors - there are many vacancies for them. In any case, a diploma of education issued in another country will have to be confirmed. It is difficult to do this without being fluent in French.

French is not a state language (the state language is Arabic), but it is used for business communication, in the field of culture and education. Without owning it, you will not get a qualified job.

The house and life are completely on the shoulders of the wife. It is not customary for men to help her with housework, but every family has the opportunity to hire an au pair. For an amount equivalent to 2-2.5 thousand rubles a month, the housekeeper will clean and do other work.

Housekeepers are predominantly rural women, which is why the cost of services is so low. Theft is not uncommon, so wealthy families prefer to hire trusted assistants and pay them more.

The only thing that local men do is cook mishui. This is lamb cooked on a spit with spices and vegetables. The dish is considered ritual, so it is served on royal holidays.

A Muslim woman and a Russian emigrant who knows at least a little about the laws and has courage will never be left with nothing. To expel her, the spouse must have serious reasons, for example, to convict of treason. Words alone are not enough - witnesses are needed.

Moroccan couples, tired of each other, prefer to get divorced in a civilized way. The laws of Islam in relation to families, if preserved, are only in some villages.

The life of Russians in Morocco is inextricably linked with gold. They, like local women, eagerly buy gold jewelry. Greed in this case is a synonym for pragmatism. Articles made of precious metals will remain with them in the event of a divorce or the death of a spouse.

Ethnic composition

The local society consists of representatives of two nationalities. 60% of the population are Arabs, almost 40% are Berbers. The total number of those who live in Morocco is 35 million. The French, Portuguese, Russians, Spaniards and Jews make up only a small percentage of the population. No more than 550 thousand live permanently in the state.

Modern Berbers, descendants of the indigenous population, live in the mountainous regions and oases of the Sahara. They managed to keep their language and some traditions.

The most populous port city is Casablanca. More than 10% of the population lives on its territory.

Rabat is the capital and cultural and industrial center of the state. It is permanently home to 1.6 million people.

The four largest metropolitan areas also include Marrakech and Fes.

Jinn and other national features

Foreigners will have to adapt to the way ordinary people live in Morocco, their mentality and national characteristics. Cunning and generalized judgments are in the blood of the local population. They do not like to specify here - they prefer to indulge in long, lengthy explanations, mentioning Allah in place and out of place. It looks comical in the conversations of grandmothers at the entrance or businessmen at the negotiating table.

Moroccans believe that solutions to any issues come from higher powers, even when it comes to the timing of making a duplicate key, tailoring a dress, and providing other services. Do not be surprised if a local resident explains the delay with the machinations of genies.

Adult people believe in their existence - not those fabulous genies that live in bottles or jugs, but creatures from the Koran who live a human life, give offspring, but remain invisible to others. The locals are afraid of them.

The inhabitants of an African country have another habit that at first cuts the ear. They swear in deed and without deed, often out of place.

Communication

Moroccans are talkers. The craving for communication is in their blood, even spontaneous. A stranger without any problems approaches a passer-by on the street and speaks to him. It is impossible to predict the topic in advance - family, personal life, offers to show the city and its surroundings, work and much more.

The only taboo is the discussion of religion. To faith, the locals, like all Muslims, are reverent and respectful. They understand that one incorrect word can offend the feelings of the interlocutor, so they take this topic out of the brackets.

You will have to refrain from friendly hugs, pats on the shoulder, kisses, because Moroccans do not welcome tactile contact. As a sign of greeting, people nod their heads to each other, occasionally shake hands.

You can’t even kiss a woman’s hand out of ignorance - in a Muslim country this can be regarded as flirting and courtship that goes beyond what is permitted.

Behavior in Ramadan

Moroccan holidays are associated with religion. Ramadan is one of them, believers must observe a monthly fast, give up excesses, cleanse themselves spiritually and physically.

Foreigners, however, note changes in people's behavior - not for the better. People grow gloomy, often demonstrate intolerance, aggression in communication. Even drivers on the roads angrily honk at motorists and pedestrians.

Shops and cafes do not work during the day during Ramadan, the streets become noticeably thinner. The post will end, and everything will return to normal.

Kitchen

National cuisine deserves a tasting, at least. For breakfast, locals drink green tea or coffee with a bun. Lunch is considered the main meal. Products for its preparation are bought in the morning.

Sandwiches and snacks are bad form. Lunch should be complete, consist of a salad, hot with meat, snacks. Families dine at home, gathering at a common table. Here even in schools there is a break for lunch.

On Fridays, the inhabitants of the Kingdom traditionally gather for couscous. His time comes immediately after prayer. Couscous is made from corn grits, the grains of which are ground by women by hand.

In the Kingdom, they do not put out all the dishes at once - they are served in turn. Dessert time comes after the hot dish: as a rule, fruit, fruit salads, yogurt, and sometimes cakes and other pastries are served.

The favorite drink of the locals is mint tea. It is drunk at home, at a party, at work, in restaurants and souvenir shops.

Housing

To understand how people live in Morocco, you need to look into the sleeping areas. The most prestigious and expensive cities to live in are Rabat and Casablanca. When renting or buying a home, the same principle applies as everywhere else: the closer to the business and cultural center, the more expensive.

You can rent a two-room apartment in a good area for 500-600 dollars, and you will have to pay about 1.5 thousand dollars a month for a villa. In residential areas, housing will be cheaper.

"Sleeping rooms" in Casablanca are built up with five-story houses with open entrances. A feature of such houses is windows that do not have a single standard, shape and size. Because of this, it seems that in some apartments they are absent, in others they are partially walled up.

shopping

Clothes, shoes, accessories and household items are sold in the markets, shopping malls and boutiques of branded clothing. Moroccans do not live well, but many prefer quality items from well-known brands.

The population buys food and spices in markets and shops - there are many of them on every street. It is more difficult to find a supermarket with a self-service system, especially in areas remote from the center, but this circumstance does not cause shortage and discomfort. Indeed, in the malls you can always buy fresh meat, fish, seafood, spices, vegetables and fruits.

There is no frozen fish in the country - only from a fresh catch. There are always dishes from it and seafood on the tables. It is important to bargain with sellers, even if you don't feel like doing it. Bargaining at the counter is part of the culture.

Food prices are three times lower than in Russia. But the salaries are low. It will be difficult for Russian migrants to find a decent job. When deciding to move, it is important to remember that Morocco is a third world country, although wealthy foreigners feel almost like in paradise there.

5 (99.36%) 501 voters

27.03.2008

At the end of last year, the ashes of Lev Nikolaevich Tolstoy's son Mikhail Lvovich, who had lived in Morocco for many years and died in its capital Rabat, were reburied in Yasnaya Polyana. In the first half of the last century, this North African country, then still a French protectorate, became a second home for many of our compatriots, including representatives of well-known aristocratic families who, by the will of fate, ended up in a foreign land.

Later, after Morocco gained independence, most of the Russians living there dispersed in all directions. The life of the once numerous community slowly died out. Over time, almost the only “material traces” of the stay of compatriots on Moroccan soil were, alas, closed Orthodox churches and several cemeteries. Until recently, they were threatened with the fate of many Russian necropolises scattered around the world, which fell into disrepair due to the fact that there was simply no one to look after the graves. However, in Morocco, nothing of the kind, fortunately, did not happen. In December 2007, the restored Russian cemetery Ben'M'Sinc in Casablanca was inaugurated. “The cemetery was in a terrible state,” says Vyacheslav Novoselov, Consul General of the Russian Federation in this largest Moroccan city. - To be honest, I was ashamed of us Russians. And one of the reasons why we decided to restore it is that we should not be Ivans who do not remember kinship.”

The formation of the Russian colony in Morocco began after the end of the civil war in Russia. The first large batch of our compatriots arrived in Casablanca in January 1922. They were mostly officers and sailors of the Black Sea squadron, after the evacuation of Wrangel from the Crimea, based, as you know, in Tunisian Bizerte.

By that time, there were many people from Europe in Casablanca. But all of them, with the possible exception of the French military, civil administration officials and members of their families, lived on the principle of “every man for himself”, and many came to Morocco solely in search of easy money, and often brought no less trouble to the colonial administration by their behavior, than the recalcitrant native tribes. The Russians, on the contrary, sought to settle in Morocco "in earnest and for a long time." In addition, there were many highly qualified specialists among them - both military and civilian. The French willingly took them into service, offering prestigious and highly paid positions. Our compatriots who ended up in Morocco supervised the construction of roads, seaports, the laying of water pipes, and topographic surveys of the area. Many officers entered the service of the Foreign Legion.

The Russians who ended up in Morocco, for the most part, perfectly understood the ephemeral nature of hopes for a speedy return home. At the same time, they sought to preserve their own national, cultural and religious identity. It was not possible to do this without mutual support. Therefore, our compatriots were the first among the representatives of all European "diasporas" in Morocco to take real steps towards unification. In the 20s - early 30s. of the last century, on the territory of this French colony, branches of the Russian All-Military Union (ROVS), the Red Cross Society, headed by Princess V.V. Urusova. In 1935, the Assumption Church was built in Casablanca. The local Orthodox parish soon became one of the main centers of Russian social life: a mutual benefit fund and a parish choir were created under it, which was later transformed into the so-called. "Singing Fund", children's clubs and sports sections. After some time, these organizations extended their activities to the whole of French Morocco, and the choir (“Singing Fund”) gave concerts even beyond its borders.

A big role in the life of the Russian community in Morocco, in addition to the aforementioned Princess V.V. Urusova, also played the former Adjutant General of Nicholas II D.P. Sazonov, Colonel of the General Staff A.A. Podchertkov, who later headed the Moroccan Department of the EMRO, Admiral A.I. Rusin, colonels G. de Salza and N.I. Likholet, captain of the 2nd regiment of the Foreign Legion G. Solovyov, deputy of the First State Duma, surgeon I.P. Aleksinsky, prot. G. Barannikov.

From this entire list (of course, far from complete), Admiral Alexander Ivanovich Rusin should be highlighted. He was born in 1861 in the Tver province. In 1882 he graduated from the Naval Corps, having received the rank of midshipman, in 1888 - the hydrographic department of the Nikolaev Naval Academy, and in 1896 - the artillery officer class.

In 1899 A.I. Rusin becomes Russia's naval attaché in Japan. Participated in the military campaign in China in 1900-1901. In subsequent years, he successfully worked in the field of naval intelligence, managed to obtain a large amount of valuable information about the Japanese military potential. Due to the inertia of the Russian military command, these materials did not find practical application.

After the outbreak of the Russo-Japanese War, Rusin headed the naval field office of the commander-in-chief, and soon became commander of the naval port of Nikolaevsk. After the war, he participated in the peace conference in Portsmouth as part of the Russian delegation. By 1913 A.I. Rusin rose to the rank of chief of the Main Naval Staff, and the following year he headed the Naval General Staff. In 1915 he was appointed Assistant Minister of the Navy, and the following year he became a full admiral - the last to receive this title from Nicholas II.

Being a monarchist, Alexander Ivanovich did not accept the February Revolution and in June 1917 he retired. In October of the same year he emigrated to France. There he became chairman of the All-Foreign Association of Maritime Organizations and the Russian Cabin Company in Paris. With the outbreak of World War II, he moved to Morocco, where he became the regent of the church choir of one of the Orthodox parishes. A.I. died. Rusin in 1956, buried in the Ben'M'Sinc Cemetery in Casablanca.

Admiral Rusin was one of many of our compatriots who, after the start of the war, and especially after the Nazi occupation of France, moved from Europe on fire to relatively calm Morocco. The next wave of migration occurred at the end of the 40s, when many Russians moved to the French protectorate in northern Africa, especially, of course, anti-Bolsheviks from Eastern European countries that found themselves in the Soviet sphere of influence. Among them were those who fought against the Soviet troops in the German army. Among them - V.N., who fought as part of the Cossack brigade Turkula. Butkov, who rose to the rank of captain of the Wehrmacht, and in the post-war years became the editor-in-chief of the printed organ of the ROVS, the magazine "Sentry", the former commander of the battalion of the Russian Corps in Yugoslavia, Major of the Wehrmacht M.I. Tikhonravov. They both fled the American DP camp in Schleinsheim, Austria. It is interesting to note that the Soviet military mission, which was also engaged in the search for former collaborators, was very active in France itself, but was never able to expand its work in Morocco.

However, political disagreements did not affect the life of the Russian community too much. So, V.N. Butkov and M.I. Tikhonravov worked side by side with patriotic-minded A.A. Podchertkov, who, as already mentioned, became the head of the local branch of the ROVS, his assistants N.A. Kolarovich and S.P. Kopyev.

The heyday of the Russian community in Morocco falls on the end of the forties - the beginning of the 50s. last century. However, in 1956 the independence of Morocco was proclaimed, two years later the kingdom established diplomatic relations with the USSR. After that, the departure of Russian emigrants took on a massive character. Only a few remained in the country, mostly those who had never been involved in social and political activities and, therefore, were not afraid of possible forced repatriation to the USSR. In 1962, the Moroccan department of the EMRO closed, a little later - the local branch of the Red Cross. Then, due to a sharp reduction in the number of parishioners, the Orthodox church in Casablanca also closed. And the inventory of graves in the Russian (or European) cemeteries of Casablanca was last carried out back in the 60s.

In total, within the city of Casablanca, there are three Christian cemeteries where Russian emigrants are buried: the already named Ben`M`Sinc, Al-Khank and Ain-Sebaa. Of these, only the first is still valid. In 2004, the Ben`M`Sinq and Al-Khank cemeteries were surveyed by employees of the Consulate General of the Russian Federation in Casablanca. As a result, 75 graves of Russian emigrants were discovered. In addition, memorial lists of compatriots buried in Casablanca were found in the chapel on the territory of the Ben'M'Sinc cemetery. To date, the names of 161 people have been identified (due to the poor state of the lists themselves, work is progressing extremely slowly). In total, according to rough estimates for 1933-2000, about 300 of our emigrants were buried in the cemeteries of Casablanca.

Almost simultaneously with the inventory, work began on the restoration of burials. About 50 people were reburied in a special section of the Ben'M'Sinc necropolis, which will henceforth be called the Russian Cemetery. Almost all of the headstones had to be redone.

Shortly before the opening of the restored Russian cemetery in Casablanca, the Russian authorities decided to allocate 700,000 euros to pay for the rent of uchatsks in Saint-Genevieve des Bois near Paris. Thus, the most famous Russian necropolis in Abroad is no longer threatened with closure, and hence destruction. “We began to collect our history bit by bit,” said Mikhail Margelov, head of the Russian delegation, chairman of the International Affairs Committee of the Federation Council, in his speech at the opening ceremony of the Russian necropolis in Casablanca. - Previously, they said about us that we are a country with an unpredictable past. We are a country with the past that we had, and we are not giving up on it now.”

Lawyer: Igor Romanovsky

Migration Law

Articles written

Morocco is a colorful and beautiful oriental country with distinctive traditions and magnificent culture. Also, the African kingdom is characterized by a stable economic situation, a high level of security and comfortable conditions for the development of citizens. Life in Morocco every year attracts more and more foreigners, including from Russia.

Since 2005, Morocco has opened its borders to Russians. Compatriots can stay in the country without a visa for up to 90 days. If they plan to stay here for a longer period, they are obliged to submit an application for a residence permit two weeks before the end of the initial stay. You can do this at any police station.

If a trip to Morocco is organized on the basis of employment, then Russians are required to contact the Moroccan embassy and apply for a work visa. This can only be done on the basis of a work permit from a Moroccan employer. Work in Morocco is available only to highly qualified specialists with work experience and a prestigious diploma.

Job search in Morocco should start early. You can find an employer remotely via the Internet.

Business and investment in Morocco for Russians

Morocco is an excellent platform for businessmen. The government of the country actively attracts foreign capital to the country and creates comfortable conditions for entrepreneurs to implement projects of various sizes. Russian businessmen prefer to open their companies in such industries as:

  • tourism;
  • service sector;
  • restaurant and hotel business;
  • textile industry and others.
Such economic sectors develop and progress, guaranteeing the owners the profitability of the enterprise. Starting a business in an African kingdom, you need to analyze the market in advance and weigh all the pros and cons. A preliminary trip to Morocco for entrepreneurs from Russia is an opportunity to personally assess the prospects for a future enterprise and establish business ties.

Among Russians in Morocco, the most popular forms of doing business are open and closed joint-stock companies. The amount of business tax depends on a number of factors, but the average cost varies between 5-30%.

Natalia Erofeeva, 34 years,

pharmacist, Kenitra, Morocco

“When I first moved to Morocco and the locals found out that I was a foreigner, I constantly heard the word “mskina” - poor thing.”

"My Planet" asks questions of Russian-speaking residents of different countries of the world. We have already learned how they live in, And . In this article, Natalia from the city of Kirovsk, Tula region, talks about the country of mandarins - Morocco.

I moved to Morocco in the pre-internet era in 2005. Search engines were not so developed, there were not so many forums with useful information, Instagram was not created. Now I would also decide to move, but I made it more comfortable.

She got married early, at 20, but not because she considered it the norm, she simply met “the same man”. It could be seen earlier and later. My husband and I have been married for 15 years. He is Moroccan.

There are no harems in Morocco for a long time. The times of Moulay Ismail have sunk into oblivion and rare. Other facts about Morocco - in our material.

I had a chance to communicate with my second wife. They strictly distribute responsibilities. The husband provides for the family, one wife brings up the children, and the second takes care of household chores. So they live, no one complains. Some of the reasons why women agree to the rank of "younger wife" "My Planet" told in an interview.

The first time I first moved to Morocco and the locals found out that I was a foreigner, I constantly heard the word “mskina” - poor thing. Actually, I don't look like a foreigner. Indulgence in terms of appearance, and in other vital matters, they do not make me.

A Moroccan chooses clothes based on the principle of "where to go." If it's for work or the market, I'll go for something traditional, like a Moroccan djellaba dress, or jeans and a tunic. If I go to a bank or other administrative institution, I can put on a classic suit.

Am I happily married? I don't understand people who advertise their feelings. They write in the status: "The happiest wife" or "The wife of the best man." Relationships should be a sacrament, a territory of two. I think it is wrong to shout about happiness as well as about unhappiness. Happy - enjoy and share it with your soulmate. Unhappy - change or change the situation. The nationality of the spouses does not matter.

My sons are Adam and Nizar. I chose the names, by the way. Since we live in Morocco, and the children are Muslims, it would be strange to call them Kolya and Vasya. I chose such names that my husband and I liked and that they sounded euphonious in Russian. Nizar's grandparents are often called Nazar. Very comfortably!

Of course, children are interested in Russia. For them, Russia is a country where everyone speaks their language - Russian (they only learn Arabic). In Russia - grandparents, whom they love very much. And snow, frost and sleds! One lesson from Russian life they learned well - do not lick the swing in the cold!

I started talking about Morocco in 2011 in LiveJournal, Instagram was after. People were interested in my Moroccan notes. They contain not only my experience - I don’t have so much of it, but the people with whom we communicate with my husband have a family and relatives. I also like to listen to Moroccan radio and read local websites.

Morocco is a hospitable country. For the most part, Moroccans seem even more hospitable than Russians: they will refuse themselves, but for the guest - all the best. You leave the guests like a wolf in the famous cartoon: “Well, you, come in, if anything” (“Once upon a time there was a dog,” it seems to be called).

Hospitality does not always mean "free". Be prepared for the fact that for the most harmless things you may be asked for a fee. For example, you saw a beautiful carpet at a local market and decided to take a picture of it. You will have to give the seller a few dirhams "for worrying."

Morocco is a Muslim country rather, a kingdom in which several religions coexist at once. The advice is this: respect the customs and traditions of the locals - and you will be respected in return. And don't judge all Muslims by religion. Not everyone behaves inappropriately.

What to bring as a gift from Morocco? Moroccan sweets. Decor items: in Russia, copper lamps and leather lamps are valued. Argan oil is a top product that every woman should have (vegetable oil from the fruits of the argan plant, rich in carotene and fatty acids. — Approx. ed.). Moroccan slippers. Spices. But tangerines should not be taken. We compared them with those sold in Russia. There was a draw!

We visit Russia once a year. Why not more often? There is no such need. Mom herself comes to me, but says that she could not live here, but to relax - with pleasure!

This year, the national team of Morocco is going to Russia for the World Cup. She was selected for the first time since 2002. Separately, I will root for each of the teams, and if two countries have to meet, then for Russia, of course!

I am a medical worker but that doesn't stop me from believing in witchcraft. On the contrary, it convinces that there is something that can influence a person: worsen his health, cause damage, jinx it. Thank God, I didn’t have to deal with witchcraft personally.

To be cured of all diseases and to be healthy, humanity needs to take a pill called "Humanity."